Chikankari is a hand-embroidery tradition from Lucknow, traditionally white thread on white or light fabric, involving up to 36 distinct stitches. Genuine hand-embroidered Chikankari shows slight irregularities and a visible working thread on the reverse, unlike the perfectly uniform look of machine embroidery. Snyvia's kurta sets start from Rs.2,449. Free shipping. COD. 7-day returns.
For a complete guide to cotton kurtis generally, see our cotton kurti guide. This guide covers Chikankari specifically as a craft tradition, its history, technique and how to identify genuine pieces.
What Is Chikankari?
Chikankari is a hand-embroidery tradition from Lucknow, Uttar Pradesh, originally worked on fine white muslin using white thread. The craft is widely believed to have been introduced to India by Nur Jahan, wife of the Mughal emperor Jahangir, in the seventeenth century, and has been practised continuously for around four centuries since. The embroidery involves up to 36 distinct stitches, each producing a different texture and visual effect. Genuine Lucknowi Chikankari carries a Geographical Indication certification confirming its regional origin.
Types of Chikankari Stitches and What They Look Like
- Tepchi: a running stitch, the simplest and most widely used technique
- Bakhiya: a shadow stitch, worked on the reverse of the fabric to create a subtle shadowed effect visible from the front
- Murri: small raised knots that add texture and dimension
- Phanda: tiny round knots, often used to fill in floral motifs
- Jali: drawn thread work creating a delicate, net-like effect, the most intricate and rarest of the Chikankari stitches
Together, these stitches produce Chikankari's characteristic raised, shadowed and textured appearance, all achieved through thread alone.
How to Identify Genuine Chikankari
Genuine hand-embroidered Chikankari shows slight irregularities between stitches, since hand-embroidery is never perfectly uniform. The reverse side shows the working thread clearly, and the bakhiya shadow stitch creates a subtle shadow visible from the front. Genuine pieces carry a GI tag, and hand-Chikankari rarely costs under Rs.500 for a kurti.
Machine-embroidered imitations, by contrast, show perfectly uniform stitching with no variation, a flat reverse side, and are noticeably cheaper.
Fabrics Used for Chikankari Kurtis
White muslin is the most traditional and most delicate base. Georgette is the most popular contemporary choice, since the embroidery reads beautifully against its slightly transparent surface. Cotton is the most practical for daily wear and office. Crepe offers a more structured option for semi-formal occasions, and Chikankari on silk is considered a luxury product.
Best Occasions for a Chikankari Kurti
Chikankari is one of the most appropriate everyday ethnic choices for office and daily wear, understated, elegant and professional. White Chikankari suits Eid celebrations particularly well, and it works beautifully for festive casual occasions, cultural events, and gifting, since it is one of the most appreciated ethnic craft gifts available.
How to Style a Chikankari Kurti
Chikankari's white-on-white aesthetic is the statement, so keep accessories minimal. Cigarette pants or palazzo in a solid colour ground the look. Pearl or silver jewellery suits the tradition well, and kolhapuri sandals or block heels complete it. Keep hair simple, a bun or loose waves, so the embroidery reads clearly.
How to Care for a Chikankari Kurti
- Handwash only in cold water
- Never wring or scrub, since the embroidery threads are delicate
- Dry flat in shade
- Iron on the reverse side on low heat, never directly on the embroidery
- Store folded rather than hanging
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I know if my Chikankari kurti is genuinely hand-embroidered?+
What is the difference between Chikankari and other white embroidery?+
Can Chikankari kurtis be machine washed?+
What is Lucknowi Chikankari?+
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